Posts Tagged ‘Growing Peppers’
Pepper Questions
Here are some frequently asked pepper questions. Peppers are pretty easy to grow in general, but you may still be wondering about a few things before you plant your peppers.
Pepper Frequently Asked Questions
Are peppers easy to grow? Yes! Most pepper varieties will grow and produce delicous fruits for you. If you have a short growing season or lots of cloudy days, however, you should stick with the tried and true peppers like a sweet banana pepper or perhaps the feisty jalapeno (both are known to be prolific). If you have a longer growing season with plenty of sunshine, you can grow almost any variety.
So how do I grow peppers? Here’s a post on germinating pepper seeds that gives information on how to grow those great-tasting peppers from seed!
What kind of insects or diseases are possible? Here is the lowdown on insects and diseases that could come to pay a visit on your peppers. Wherever possible, I’ve suggested organic (or at least chemical-free) solutions.
Can I grow peppers is a greenhouse? Sure! The key to deciding the varieties that would be best are 1) the size of your greenhouse and 2) the warmth and sunlight your greenhouse receives. Most pepper varieties take up relatively little space, so greenhouse conditions are more of a determining factor.
When should I plant peppers? It really depends on your climate! For example, in South Florida, the Spring and Fall are our prime pepper-growing times, with Summer also being good for the chile peppers. Here’s a general rule of thumb; start your seeds indoors at 6 to 8 weeks before your last expected frost for a main-season planting. For more detailed information, check out the planting pepper seeds post.
How do I make chile powder? Chile powder (or more specifically, ground dried hot pepper) is very easy if you have a dehydrator, but you can still dry them in an oven or in a warm dry place! First, pick your peppers and make sure they are clean and dry. Place them in your dehydrator in a single layer and dry them until they crack when you try to bend them.
No dehydrator? Place the peppers in a single layer in a warm oven, with the door slightly cracked (about 200 degrees). It will take a long time, though, depending on the size of the pepper! Check every few hours and remove when dry. After the peppers are dried (by any means), crush the peppers (seeds and all!) with a mortar and pestle.
One final note; if you are dehydrating a very hot variety of pepper (habaneros, scotch bonnet, etc.), you may want to wear gloves, eye protection and a face filter while you are crushing the dried peppers. Yes, I’m being serious; these peppers are hot and if you’re at all sensitive, the fine pepper dust can wreak havoc with your eyes and lungs.
Oww! How can I cool down my mouth (and cool down the pepper)? Check out the chile pepper post for some tips on cooling down that hot sensation!
Pepper Diseases
There aren’t a ton of pepper diseases that will plague you, which is fortunate. However, the two main diseases can pretty much decimate your plants if not controlled.
Pepper Diseases
Let’s take a quick look at the two most common ailments that can effect your pepper plants (bell, sweet and hot), and how best to avoid them.
Nematodes: Plants are dwarfed, sickly, and will sometimes wilt readily in dry weather. Roots showing swelling or galls, and can let in bacteria. This is actually caused by a tiny worm, and if you get rid of the nematodes, you will remove the problem.
These tiny worms infiltrate the root system, crippling and even killing the plant. Since nematodes are most prevalent in sandy soil (common in the southeastern US), you’ll need to take extra care if you live in this area.
If you find your plants are plagued by a nematode infestation, you have three options:
- Move your garden to a different site in your yard, which may or may not be nematode-free.
- Solarize the soil (see below) then plant marigolds (which nematoes dislike intensely).
- Create raised beds for your garden, raised by at least 6 inches. You’ll need to dig out an area at least a foot deep and at least two feed wide. Then you’ll need to fill it back in with compost, composted manure, sphagnum moss, etc. Do not use any of the soil you dug out to re-fill the trenches.
- Plant your peppers in containers. Since pepper plants tend to remain under 3 feet tall (one notable exception being jalepenos), they are pretty well-suited for container growing. In fact, since I live in a nematode area, I grow all my peppers in containers.
Solarizing: To solarize the soil, till the ground, then cover it with a thick, clear plastic. The sun will “bake” the soil, killing the nematodes. Since you also kill all the “good” bacteria by this method, so be sure to spread some compost over the solarized soil a week or two before planting.
(Although nematodes are technically an insect, since their effect is systemic, I’ve included them in the diseases section.)
Tobacco Mosaic Virus: Green or yellow mottling of leaves; some curling, malformation, and dwarfing of leaflets. Plants slightly stunted. Fruits mottled by yellow strains of the virus. Can be passed from plant to plant by handling wet plants that are infected, then handling healthy plants (for example, when examining fruits on a damp morning.) This disease is widespread throughout the USA.
It’s thought that handling tobacco can transfer the virus to pepper plants. Some people say no, some say definitely. At any rate, if you do smoke or otherwise handle tobacco, it would be wise to wash your hands thoroughly before working with your peppers.
Other Notes on Pepper Diseases
Like their (far-flung) relatives the tomatoes, peppers can fall prey to bacterial infections. Fortunately, most peppers (in my experience) have been less-susceptible than tomatoes. Still, you want to make sure you have plenty of air circulation around the pepper plants, and that you don’t water the foliage (except with a foliar spray early in the morning before the dew has dried).
