Germinating Pepper Seeds
Germinating pepper seeds can be a wee bit frustrating at first, mainly because it takes so long for the seeds to germinate. But once you have done it a few times, it’s pretty easy.
Why should you try germinating pepper seeds, instead of just buying plants at your local garden center? One reason is because the selection at your garden center is very likely limited. At best you’ll find 10 pepper varieties, more often less than that.
Usually the gorgeous ornamental-appearing peppers don’t show up in the garden center; these have to be grown from seeds. Two wonderful varieties that come immediately to my mind are Explosive Ember and Sweet Pickle.
Pepper Germination Rates
First of all, don’t expect a 100% seed germination rate from your pepper seeds. While you just might get 100%, in my experience in growing many, many varieties, 75% is more the norm. So I plant 25% more seeds than I need, and if they all germinate and thrive, I can sell or give away the extras.
Germination rates vary according to how long ago the seeds were harvested, as well as how the seeds have been stored. Generally, you want to use pepper seeds within 2 years, but they can germinate long after that time, too.
For example, I have some 10-year-old seeds that I planted a week ago, and I fully expect that some will germinate. I just planted a lot extra, because I knew the germination rate was going to be low. However, some of these seeds are rare varieties, so they are worth trying.
I tend to buy my pepper seeds online, but I’ve been known to pick up a pack at the garden shop from time to time. Either way, you don’t know for sure how old those seeds are. Always plant extra.
Germinating Pepper Seeds – Warmth and Humidity
When germinating your pepper seeds, the two most important things are heat and humidity. Peppers like plenty of warmth, and germinate best at soil temperatures of 80 to 85 degrees.
While those seeds are sitting in the warm soil, they need to be kept damp, but not wet. They need the moisture to soften the seed coats, so the plants can be born (so to speak). I like to use a windowsill greenhouse when germinating pepper seeds; the top of the greenhouse keeps in the humidity. And a bonus is that these little mini-greenhouses are inexpensive, so you can have lots for many windowsills.
However, if you live in a cooler climate, you may want to use a heat mat under your peppers to be germinated.  Please don’t use a household heating pad; that could be dangerous. Instead, get one that’s waterproof and made for keeping seeds and seedlings warm.
If you are planting pepper seeds directly outside, wait until the soil temperature has reached at least 65 degrees and that they get full sun, to heat the soil even more. Remember to keep the soil damp, but not wet.
That’s it for now! If you want to read more about seed starting for peppers, read my posts on seed starting part 1 and seed starting part 2. Enjoy!
Pepper Plant Planting Instructions
If you’ve purchased seedlings, or if you’ve grown your own, here are the steps for transplanting the peppers. You’ll need:
- A shovel or trowel (for planting in the ground).
- A suitably large container (for growing in a pot).
- Soil and soil amendments (compost, aged manure, etc.).
- For larger pepper plants, a “cage” or a post (to help keep the peppers off the ground).
- Mulch.
- Your pepper plants.
For container growing, the general guide is that you need a container that will hold 3 or more gallons of soil and amendments. Very large pepper plants require at least a 5 gallon container, and 7 gallons is even better. Fill the container with the soil and amendments, about 1/2 way full.
If you are planting in your garden, dig a hole at least 18″ across and a foot deep (two feet deep is better). Place soil and amendments in the hole, filling it up about 1/2 way.
Pepper Planting Technique
Spread your fingers and place them over the top of the seedling container. Turn the container upside-down and gently tap the container until the pepper plant comes out. Place the plant in its final container or in the ground. Add soil and amendments until full, and gently firm the soil around the plant. Place the cage or the post in place (large varieties only).
Give your plant a good drink of water, and add more soil, if necessary. Finally, mulch the pepper; this helps prevent weeds from popping up, helps to regulate the moisture in the soil, and also helps to control soil-borne bacteria.
Fertilize your pepper plants after about a week; but only fertilize at 1/2 strength. Once the pepper blossoms appear, you can begin using fertilizer at 3/4 to full strength.
Wasn’t that easy?
Pepper Growth Requirements
Want to try your hand at growing peppers? It’s really not hard!
Whether your choice is bell, sweet or hot, you’ll find the guidelines for sun and warmth below.
Growing Peppers
Like most fruits and vegetables, peppers require at least 6 hours or direct sunlight a day. Peppers also require warm weather — frost will kill them. The ideal temperatures for most (not all!) peppers is the 80’s to 90’s during the day, with nights in the 60’s and 70’s. (Temperatures in degrees Farenheit.)
And you know something strange? When it comes to hot (chile) peppers, the hotter the climate the better! Well, maybe that’s not strange…
Peppers will grow and set fruit in warmer weather, as well as in cooler weather; they just won’t be quite as productive. Keep your local temperatures in mind when selecting pepper varieties. For example, a grower in the cool Pacific Northwest would be better off with early peppers (those that mature in 70 days or less), as well as peppers that are bred for cooler weather.
Live in a hot climate? As mentioned before, peppers, and especially chile peppers, like it hot! Just make sure that the peppers don’t get too much direct sunlight in the afternoons, or they might just shrivel up on you. Morning sun and afternoon light shade in the South is just the ticket.
So, keep your local climate in mind when selecting pepper varieties. Oh, and an adequate water supply is essential for peppers to produce fruits; an average of an inch of water per week is considered optimal, but if you live in a dry climate, you might want to provide a bit more.
