Growing Peppers in Florida
Growing peppers in Florida seems like it should be a piece of cake, especially in the summertime — hot temperatures, plenty of rain, sunshine. But what are some special concerns if you decide to grow peppers in Florida?
Summer is the Best (and Worst) Time
Summer is best in Florida because of the heat — peppers adore hot weather! Conversely, it can be the worst time, due to rain (like what we had in 2008 – whoa!), humidity and super-bright sunshine. Each can cause problems, but there are solutions!
Solution number one is to primarily grow your chile (hot) and ornamental peppers in the summer. They love the heat, and especially the habaneros, scotch bonnets and bhut jolokia peppers. Their original home is the tropics, which fits right in with Florida in Summer!
Bell peppers are better grown in the cooler, “shoulder” seasons. I’ve had very little luck growing nice, big bell peppers in Summer.
The sweet peppers can be grown in the hot Florida summer, as long as you provide them shade during the hottest part of the day. In fact, I like to grow all but my hottest peppers in dappled shade, during July and August. Sun scald can be a problem!
Humidity can also be an issue , unless you leave plenty of room between your pepper plants for air circulation. If the air can’t circulate, sweet and bell peppers in particular can get mold and fungus on the leaves.
What About the Other Seasons?
Here in South Florida where I live, I can pretty much grow peppers year-round, with one caveat; that I be able to protect them when the night-time temperatures go below 50. Peppers, especially the really hot ones, are sensitive to the chilly weather. They don’t like cold feet, especially cold wet feet.
Actually, in most of Florida you can plant your peppers outside in Spring, once the night temperatures are consistently above 55 degrees. The soil should be really warm, though, if the evenings are still cool, so make sure where you plan to plant gets at least 8 hours of direct sun a day. And if your peppers decide to be long-lived into the late summer, make sure you can give your sweet peppers at least some shade at mid-day or sun scald can be a problem.
In any case, it’s best that you germinate your pepper seeds inside; check out the germinating pepper seeds post for instructions. And I’ve come to realize that especially with hot chile pepper seeds, I have to add warmth to the soil, when I germinate my seeds in the winter – even here in South Florida! That’s where grow mats with heat some in handy.
(Before trying the grow mats in Winter, my chile pepper seed germination rate wasn’t all that great, even though my windowsill greenhouse is on a south-facing window. Live and learn.)
I’ve recently started growing red, yellow and green bell peppers and they are leafing quite well; however, that’s all they are doing…I’ve seen no buds on them. I have three pots with several pepper plants a piece in them and I have a feeling that is what the problem is. Can anyone help me?
Hi Julia! That’s an excellent question, and while part of the problem might be multiple plants per pot, let’s explore some ideas.
This has been a pretty cool winter in Florida, and I’ve noticed that my peppers are growing very slowly. Because they are growing more slowly, they are also producing few flowers. This might be one problem you’re running into. Remember, peppers love warmth!
Another is how are you fertilizing them — what are you using? If it’s a fertilizer higher in nitrogen than phosphorus, the plant will like to grow leaves, at the expense of flowers. (And no flowers = no peppers.) Nitrogen is the first number listed on fertilizers; you want this number smaller than the middle number (phosphorus).
Now let’s get back to having several peppers in a single container. How large is the container, and how many plants do you have in them? Generally, I like to have 1 plant per two gallons of pot size. If I have miniature plants (less than 1 foot tall), I will have 1 plant per gallon of pot size.
I hope this helps!
Hi, I have had 5 peppers so far from my plants. Only two have been edible. Something is creating some sort of cocoon on it as well as getting in it and eating it from the inside. Also the leaves are being eaten. I have looked (maybe not thoroughly enough) for bugs but this is my first garden and I don’t know what to look for other than that big green worm! Can I put something on them? I have a ton of flowers and tiny peppers coming out now and would like to enjoy them all.
Hi Arlene, and welcome!
OK, you say that something is creating a cocoon on your peppers, getting inside and eating them. What might be the “critter”? Hard to tell, but here’s something to think of.
I’ve had problems with my peppers getting eaten-on in the past — darn those insects/birds! Here’s what I am trying this year, pretty successfully so far.
I bought some of those sheer white organza drawstring bags and I put them over the pepper, then pull the drawstring closed. I use a sheer white so the pepper can still get some sunshine. And the organza material “breathes”.
You can usually find the bags in the bridal department of a craft store. I have a few sizes, from 3″x5″ all the way up to 8″x10″ (which I use on my cucumbers). I find that the 4″x6″ size is what I use most often.
The only other thing I can suggest is to make a daily (twice-daily if you can manage it) patrol for pests. If you can do it, go out with a flashlight at dusk a time or two.
Here’s a hint, if you have “old eyes” like me — if you use reading glasses for close-up work — wear them while looking at your pepper plants.
Best of luck, Arlene, and let us know how your other peppers fare!
Hello. I have staked my pepper plants but they continue to fall. Especially now that they have fruit. The plant is growing in height but not bushing out. Is this normal and what do you recommend for supporting the plant?
Thanks
Hi Craig,
It’s nice to hear that your plants are full of peppers, but the falling part sure is hard to take! Let’s see what we can figure out for you.
Although I don’t normally need to stake my plants, when I do I like to use square tomato cages (not the round cone-shape ones). The peppers get supported on all sides, and can “lean” where they need.
I’va also used wooden stakes, but for them to work, they have to really be pounded into the ground about a foot; otherwise, they will lean, too, and fall over on the plant. (Ask me how I know…)
For support ties, I like to use old pantyhose — it stretches enough so that the plant doesn’t get constricted. Otherwise, something like surveyor’s tape also works. I don’t like to use twine or rope, though — it can get rub against the stems and scratch them.
If the plant is growing in height but not bushing out, I have three questions:
What is the kind of pepper; some tend to grow tall more than wide. So in other words, is it normal for your variety?
Is the plant getting enough direct sunlight? If the pepper plant isn’t getting at least 6 hours of direct sun a day, it will tend to grow taller, trying to get to as much light as it can.
Is the plant getting too much nitrogen in the fertilizer? Nitrogen can cause tall, leggy growth if it’s not balanced with potassium and phosphorus. I like using a 15-30-15 fertilizer at half strength for my pepper plants. (The first number is nitrogen, and if it’s a larger number than the other two, it’s getting too much nitrogen.)
Whew! Hope this helps.
Hi There,
I had success with bell peppers in my Central FL garden last year. However, this year a few of my specimens have leaves that seem to shrivel up and a few of the plants have continued to deteriorate and die. Some continue to grow with the shriveled leaves and are struggling to produce fruit, while other specimens are growing perfectly healthily and fruiting. Any ideas as to what the issue is and why it is only affecting some of the plants? This issue starts happening only a few weeks after planing, around the time they get really well established. I usually by them from Home Depot.
Hi Drake,
My first thought would be nematodes. However, you say that some show the problem while others don’t. If they are planted in the ground (i.e. not in containers) and only some are effected, then perhaps nematodes aren’t the culprit.
The other thought would be insects. Sucking the juice out of the leaves would cause them to curl and appear shriveled. Take a magnifying glass (or a strong pair of reading glasses) out to your peppers and check the leaves, especially the undersides. Bright sunshine will find aphids, ants, etc. Early morning or dusk may find catapillers.
Check the insects page http://www.homegrown-peppers.com/category/pepper-insects/ for ideas on how to combat them.
Hello, I have been growing peppers( bells, marconi, cowhorn, peppecinis) in home made earth boxes for two years now. I have had very good luck for the most part but this summer, a batch of my orange bells grew tall and leafy but the pepper look like someone sat on them! they only grew about an 1 1/2″ total from the top to bottom and 2″ across!What might have caused this? Also, living in west cental florida, what do I have to do to keep them through the winter. If I cut them back, will they grow again and prduce? Thanks for your help!
Hi Nadine,
My first thought would be that the seeds you got had been crossed with another type of pepper or the wrong pepper seed got put in the wrong packet. I say that because it happened to me twice this year (from different seed suppliers even!).
Otherwise, I would think that the peppers perhaps didn’t get quite the growing conditions they were expecting; not enough fertilizer, too much sun, too little rain (you get the idea). But if the rest of your peppers are OK, I’d suspect something happened with the seeds.
As to trying to keep them growing with this coming winter. I’d say try it, but unless you have a greenhouse, I’m not sure how much success you will have, come December/January, when it gets quite chilly.
But, cut them back a bit and give them some nice compost tea or MiracleGro for Tomatoes (peppers like the same nutrients). Keep them in an area that will be the warmest and have the most sun, once the cooler days arise.
Best wishes!
Thank you Gail, It never occured to me that it might be the seed!! Thanks for your help and ideas!
Hi Gail! I’ve been reading your answers to these questions and find them very helpful! My question (and one I have not seen) is would my peppers germinate if I planted them this month? I know they don’t do well in colder months and seeing as how winter is right around the corner, would it be a waste of time to start them now? Also, for indoor grown peppers, would a lizard cage (like an aquarium) and heating pad be a good idea if it got too cold outside?
Thank you in advance
Hi Becky, thanks for your question. Sure, the seeds will germinate, but with Winter looming in the next few months, it will be too chilly for the peppers. Or, let me tell you a story. I planted 2 pepper plants ourside in January; both were well-grown already, and I am in South Florida, so the weather is relatively mild.
Both plants grew, but very slowly. The bell put out a token pepper, which didn’t ripen until April! Even the thai pepper, which is known for its profusion of fruit, put out just a couple.
Now when the warm weather really started showing up at the end of March, both pepper plants perked up. And by May they were loaded with ripe peppers!
What I guess I’m trying to say is that while you can plant peppers now and grow them during the winter (with appropriate protection from 45 degree and below weather), they won’t do very well. Unless in a greehouse, of course.
Yes, you could grow the peppers indoors, but just remember that they need plenty of the right kind of light — a sunny windowsill doesn’t cut it in the wintertime (I know, I’ve tried). Make sure to have plenty of flourescent lights for the plant(s).
Having said all that, why not experiment with a plant ot two? I just wouldn’t get up hopes for lots of fresh peppers over the winter is all.
Hope this helps, and best wishes!
I am growing real scotch bonnets from seeds from jamaica and the plants are big and healthy BUT the peppers are turning orange before they get big they are like little marbles still HOT but tiny anyone knoow why
?????
Hi Maureen,
It’s possible that the peppers are naturally smaller, if they were accidentally crossed with (for example) a bird or datil pepper. They would still be really hot, but smaller.
Other possibilites include the fertilizer and location. Since you say the plants are big and healthy, it may be that they are getting a bit too much nitrogen and not enough potassium., which is linked to fruit size.
Hello — I am growing red, yellow and orange peppers – each in their own separate container. All the plants are doing well and each have large peppers, but how long do I have to wait before they turn color? The orange have changed, and I have gotten 1 red pepper, but the majority are still green and have been large for several weeks. Will they change color once they are picked? I don’t want to lose them in this cooler weather by leaving them on the plant but I purposely planted these instead of the green bells since they are so expensive to buy. I am using a root and bloom granular fertilizer and use it every 2 weeks or so.
Thanks!
Hi Anita,
Yes, your picked peppers should ripen indoors, just do it the same way you’d ripen tomatoes — warm sunny windowsill. (Although I have had some small success with having them out of the sun, but still in a warm spot in the kitchen.)
As to how long to wait — it depends on the pepper variety; some ripen sooner than others. And of course they ripen faster in hot weather than then do in mild temperatures.
So my advice would be to let them stay on the plant as long as possible, but if the weather forecast calls for temperatures under 45 degrees, pick them and bring them indoors to ripen.
I grow several different plants during the winter season in south Florida. My biggest challenge is bell and banana peppers. I start most of my plants by seed but also purchase started plants to compare. Once the plants start to flower, the growing tips stop growing and the plants appear to be stunted. Any ideas as to what is happening?
Hi Shawn,
If both kinds of pepper plants (seeds and starter plants) show the same problem, my guess is that it’s a soil problem, with not enough potassium and/or phosphorus.
When in doubt, I use a weak solution of Miracle-Gro for Tomatoes partnered with a kelp or fish emulsion spray, to help things along.
The weather also plays a big role — too hot or too cold will adversely effect the plants (and the fruit).
Here in South Florida, we’ll be coming into the prime pepper season starting around the end of February and running through about June or possibly July.
But if you live north of Broward county, hold off on planting peppers outside — we still have the coldest part of winter to go through and could very easily get more freezes.
I live Naples Fl and have several pepper plants planted in pots. They are 7 gallon pots with two plants per pot. I keep having problems with banana and cubanella peppers. They wilt and die. They get a full day of sun as do my other pepper plants. The other plants are doing fine. I make a mixture of Black Cow, Peat moss, sand and vermiculite as a planting medium that my other vegtables, tomatoes and peppers do very well in.
Does anybody know why I’m not doing well with the banana and cubanella variety?
Hi Ed, it sounds like these two varieties are either sucseptible to a disease, or they are seriously in need of additional moisture.
It’s something I am seeing this year, although in my case it’s a bell pepper. All the other plants are fine, but this one plant needs at least 3 times the water compared to the others, or it wilts something terrible.
You say they wilt and die; are the leaves discolored in any way? Are these two peppers planted in the same 7-gallon container, or are they side by side in different containers? If the leaves aren’t discolored, and there don’t appear to by any aphids on the plants (get out the reading glasses to check), water would be my thought.
One other possibility, if you used sand from the garden in the soil mix, there might be some nematodes in the containers. It’s kind of an off chance, but here in Florida, it’s something to consider.
i have two hanging planters, one with a yellow and one with a red pepper plant. they both have huge fruit (one each)but still green. they have been out for 77 days now and i wonder if i should pick the big ones and ripen in the sun?
Hi Bill, you can pick them and let them ripen on a sunny windowsil if you want, or you can leave them on to ripen on the plant — it’ll take about the same amount of time either way.
Peppers (especially bell) take a fair amount of time to ripen to their final color; sometimes it seems like forever! That’s why I’ve taken to growing quite a few plants, so I can pick some green for eating while I’m waiting for others to ripen.
Best wishes for ripening!
thanks Gail, also, should i be fertilizing these plants all the time or just when young?
I try not to fertilize too much, since the soil I use has a lot of organic compost. Still, I do use some fertilizer, mostly when the plants are young. Then perhaps once more when they are fruiting. But when I do fertilize, I generally don’t use more than 1/2 strength, and more like 1/3 strength when the plants are young.
Thank for all the great information on this website.
I planted several green pepper plants from left-over seeds from peppers I purchased at the store. The plants are almost three feet hight now and one plant has a four inch pepper growning well. There are LOTS of flowers on the other plants, but no other peppers. I use miracle grow plant food once a month (for three months now). The flowers come out and then after four or five days, they drop off. They get four to five hours of direct sunlight a day, watered daily (as well as sprayed from above). I was wondering if the seeds are the issue. Do ALL the seeds produce fruit-bearing plants?
Hi Dan,
First, what kind of Miracle-Gro are you using? If it’s not the Miracle-Gro labeled specifically for tomatoes, that could be your problem; the regular Miracle-Gro doesn’t have enough potassium for peppers to bear fruit well (peppers are related to tomatoes).
Unless you are in a Southern climate, 4 or 5 hours of sun a day is marginal; peppers like sunshine, and lots of it. Six tp eight hours of sun is best. If you’re in zone 9 or 10, though, five hours a day is likely fine; the sun is strong down here.
Your pepper plants sound like they are otherwise healthy, if they are almost 3 feet tall. Yes, they should all produce fruit, but because the store-bought peppers were likely hybrids, the results can vary from plant to plant. Some may produce plenty, some not as much. That’s the interesting thing about planting seeds from grocery-store peppers; you never know exactly what you might get.
So if you’re not using Miracle-Gro for Tomatoes, start using it, or get some kelp fertilizer; that should help your flowers turn into fruits.
Hope you start seeing peppers soon!
HI!
I started some peppers from the big box stores the end of march.
i have them in big pots with 8 to 10 hours of full sun a day here in Orlando FL.
both have lots of peppers but did not know then to pick them
or how long thay will stay good on the plants [first timer]
IAN
Hi Ian,
Peppers are great because you can pick them at any time! Whether you like them green or fully ripe, they are great either way — so pick when you want!
If you want them ripe, pick them either when they are half-way turned color, and let them ripen in the house (kind of like what you would do with tomatoes), or you can leave them on the vine until they turn their final color.
But I wouldn’t leave them on the vine too long after they are fully ripe. Pick them, and put them in the refridgerator is you have too many to eat at once.
Enjoy your peppers!
Hi Rick,
Let’s see, you can try diatomaceaous earth, sprinkled over and around the plants; that may help with the catepillars somewhat. But if you have moths, well, that’s the possibility of more catepillars. But I’m afraid plucking them off may be best.
You could always try a red pepper spray; get some fresh chile peppers from the store (the hotter the better) and blend them, adding a little bit or water to help the blending processwater. Pour out of the blender and into a cup, add some more water and let sit for a day. Strain off the water into a sprayer, and go forth to spray! The capsaicin in the peppers water may deter the pests.
I don’t know how closely you have the plants spaced, but spacing them out so that the leaves don’t touch may help control the spread of the varmits. If you don’t have them in containers, though, that may not be possible.
Check out http://www.gardensalive.com for more ideas — they specialize in non-chemical solutions. Also. pick your peppers before they are attacked and let them ripen on the counter (assiming you have the space).